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The problem I have is that the splice doesn't make it around the windlass... bunches up, pushes off the gypsy, have to disengage the windlass and manually feed the splice section through to the below-deck locker. I see many others with the same issue. Suggestions?

Don’t you need to grease the contact Services as stated in your manual?

Seriously you try putting it into a hatch fitted to a boat already. You can’t use both sides for your hands and it doesn’t pop in as demonstrated. Also you need to take it out overtime you close the hatch. Just saying!

So, no grease at all? Anywhere??

Side loading the swivel not great

Are customers still having problems with the Pro Sport 500 stripper breaking?

Terrible how to video. I want to see close up of what he's doing, not a zoom out of him doing it.

An important part detail is missing. T Once the plastic spacers are removed, a plastic rod remains in place and the hinge pins can slide with it in place. To help with older hatches, spray all the hinge points with a thin lubricant. This will help immensely to slide the pins.

Thank you, its help me👍

My gypsy doesn't have a magnet, and the only markings (RC-0860) are marked in both sides in the inside. What changes is that one side of the gypsy has a larger diameter than the other, and the teeth inside are angled (so the angle can be either pointing forwards or aft if looking from the starboard side of the unit). If the teeth are angled aft, the larger diameter is on the starboard side (facing out with respect to the unit); and correspondingly if the teeth are angled forward, the larger diameter side is on the port side (facing the unit). Which is the correct gypsy orientation in this case?

Pretty weak intro to these anchors and they seem very slow with the electric vs hydraulic pumps....and not really any quieter. Meh

really helpfull

good to see that kind of tutorils for installation hatches and vents

Shoulder bolt came off ok but the pro fish too cap is frozen. Any tricks to loosen it?

The code on my gypsy is 160. But I can't find any info on a 160 gypsy or what chain size it takes. The gypsy is on what appears to be a never used SL manual vertical windlass w/drum that i found in the storage. Anchorman? Not sure if suitable for my sailboat? 35' approx. 14,500lbs. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

With great respect and no evil intentions, this video is almost useless compared to what it could be: Your close-up shots are far from close enough to be of use, and the audio is far from being audible due to the low recording level and high background noise. It's time to redo the video with professional assistance. Cheers!

I can not find any information on these at all

Very explicit and helpful

Having a problem. On my Profish 700 when the cap is tightening up, the pin passes the block causing the gypsy to remain loose. The pin should stop retracting in the middle of the stopper cam as in you video at 1:15. How can I fix this?

I think the Old El Paso girl might have the best set up - Why Don’t We Have Both? Shackle then swivel?? Or as othe YT channels suggest - shackle + some chain + swivel

Hi can I replace the seal on my Lewmar Ocean hatch 65 trapezoidal . The frame that holds the seal is different from the low and medium profile htches.

Yes….but my Lewmar portlight is installed in a boat & running up & down companionways in the dark trying to install a fly screen is not fun. I did damn my soul to an eternity of torture for swearing so much but I do look forward to it since it’s less torture than fitting a fly screen. But wait there’s more torture…. Try closing these portlights in heavy seas with one hand!

How much are these?

You're a wizard Jack. No seriously, I generally consider myself not the bluntest tool in the box, but I've been swearing at mine for a good half hour. Mosquitoes the size of sparrows here, and the bastards are getting into the galley. My flyscreen appears too big for my hatch. And what are the clippy boys for? EDIT: got it to work but the hatch doesnt close

Bad vid no close up

🎊 'promosm'

I don't get it. The anchor either needs a roll bar or it doesn't. It's not a fashion accessory! Why would you offer one if it doesn't need one? Why would you not fit one if it does need one? The best anchor on the market is the Spade. It doesn't need a roll bar. This your competition. They are clear about not needing a roll bar. Lewmar don’t seem to have this certainty. If Lewmar is not certain if it needs one, it gives the impression that Lewmar has no confidence in its product. If you have no confidence in the product, how do you expect customers to feel? The Delta anchor is a poor performer compared to its new generation peers. The Epsilon needs to be a whole lot better and compete in a market saturated with good anchors. The do I or don't I fit a roll bar is absurd. The customer will just buy another anchor

Thanks it was a mystery to me until I saw this

WOW!!! They confirmed windlass was operating properly before heading out for the day! Beautiful Anchor!

How is this so expensive!?

Be more relevant if you took a new seal out of the bag and installed it. I just ordered one from my local supplier, who got it from Lewmar, and it is way too small to fit on easily. Seems about 10 inches too short- can't even get it around the 3rd corner of my Series 30 rectangle hatch window, let alone the 4th.

How did you bring out the stucked screws?

How do you close the window? Should I remove it and install it every time when I use it? This is not enough information.

Without CC I couldn't tell hex size... it is 5 and 8 mil with the lewmar tool it was simple as the fine man indicated. Thank you! I had a rope jam on my new Lewmar Pro-Fish and this helped with disassembly. Cheers.

It would be great if Lewmar could put this information on its outdated website. Seriously the Lewmar website is rubbish. Totally unhelpful when trying to find parts and information. I finally identified which port lights I have, now after seeing this there is another 3 types within the type. You would think for the money Lewmar charge they could invest in a decent user friendly and helpful website

How much is that assembly?

Rubbish, completely misleading video. Getting these apart and back together is far from easy no matter how dexterous one is. When I was at uni in 2011 studying design/engineering our lecturer brought one of these hatches in. We made a case study of its design, or rather lack of. He said we would be hard pushed to find a better example of poor design. He went on to explain that what worked on the drawing board didn’t always translate into real world application, but that this was an abortion of a design from the start and should never ever have made it into full blown production. The one we had may have differed from the one in the video slightly in that the hinge pins in ours were totally plastic, but everything else looks identical. During the course of one term every student was given one hour to see if they could assemble the thing. Of a class of 23 not one single person ever got it done in the allotted time, none. I always remember this because he turned out to be right, I’ve never come across anything as bad. On a side note this hatch actually came off the lecturers boat and when he removed the others at a later date more than one had broken pins so that the hatches were only being held at three points instead of the designated four. He said it was a scary thought how many boats must be out on the worlds oceans with the exact same problem thinking they were safe when in reality there was only two plastic pins keeping them from ending up on the ocean floor come the next heavy weather.

Marvelous Jack.... if you can walk on water. But for us mere mortals who lack that ability, let's see you fit it working only from the inside...... 😏

100% what both Simon and Charles M say here. Just did this. All advice I wish I had read. 1. Had to replace the friction hinges on Lewmar 60 hatch as they were rusted/corroded and impossible to get out (centre screws only came out with hammer and screwdriver). Don’t be fooled, if you break your alan key and pin getting it out, it’s done. Note: this video was super helpful ruclips.net/video/eYi9NrAnwfI/видео.html Our frame has the friction hinges (video link above), while the Lewmar video for removing the lid shows the non friction hinges m.ruclips.net/video/Yh0Xn8WsG9w/видео.html - so just look out for that cause it looks easy but then you get tricked. It would be great if Lewmar could show both versions and some trouble shooting. 2. Start this on a day where you have time and ideal weather for a few days so you can order more parts. I thought this would be quick and easy but had to replace things and had rain panics. 3. It’s not that easy to put a hatch seal back on, and definitely not a 1 man job - these videos would have been way more helpful if they showed a realistic situation. Do it on a warm day or warm the seal a bit as it will be easier, get 2-3 hands to help hold while stretching. It takes a while and impossible with a new seal with one human (unless you have tools and clamps that help) 4. I only unscrewed the frame on 2 sides and left the bars in - this was easier to reassemble, but it’s quite tricky pushing the frames back together after putting the seal on. Required a lot of work (I’m pretty sure there is an easier way to put it back together like with lubricant, it wasn’t too bad when we pushed the frame out a bit to help it slide, but last little bit took a long time once the bars were going back in). 5. Watch the Lewmar video for taking the lid off in the first place, will save you the trouble of unscrewing the wrong parts off (see comment 1 about the hinges though) 6. If you have the cash, I’d honestly just buy the entire hatch 🤣 Just saying, it was a mission and sounds like a lot of people experience this thing being a pain. I’m pretty sure that after all of this it almost cost the same.

I have the same hatch, but it was installed opening from the rear. I'd like to reverse it, so it opens from the front. I have no problem remounting the associated parts on the reverse side, but I can't get the hinge separated from the frame. What is holding the hinge on to the frame? I took out the four screws that are in the hinge, but it wouldn't budge. Is it welded on? If so, I wonder if I can keep them in place and install two new hinges. I'm trying to avoid total frame removal with re-bonding.

Nice video, thanks. I have a problem with an old (2000) low profile hatch. The system is a little bit different and I am not able to separate the hatch from the frame. May you help me, please?

No se ve bien como desmonta

Do you have any of your low profile hatches available in black? There's a online shop who's selling your hatches on black, but I couldn't find those models on your website. I would be very happy to get an answer! Thanks!!

There is a special place in hell for the designer of these hinges.

LOL - this video is a total joke. To anyone looking at this and coming away thinking these Lewmar low-profile hatches can be rebuilt - YOU HAVE BEEN DUPED. The rubber seals TEAR when you attempt to push the metal frame back on. EVERY TIME. Slathered with copious quantities of silicone grease, seal equally tight all the way around - no difference in outcome. Every time as the frame pieces get close together the rubber at a corner will tear. You will spend more on seal kits and other parts attempting to rebuild these hatches than the hatches cost new. AND you will have wasted hours in utter frustration. For Lewmar to sell rubber seal kits for over $35 per seal and to a design that is guaranteed to fail during assemble is WRONG.

Where can I buy just that dinky little black pin between the two casings?

Nice hardware!

fig sake mate!